Salzburg, Austria
This fairy tale city was my home for one year -
from September
1989 to July 1990. The city of Mozart, The Sound of Music, mountains and church
spires.
Salzburg hugs the banks of the Salzach River, a few km from
the German border. On the west bank of the river sits the Altstadt - cobblestone
and winding streets. The Residenz and the Dom are the center of the Altstadt,
and Mozart's birthplace and the Getreidegasse (Salzburg's famous shopping
street) are not to be missed. The 
Hohensalzburg fortress (seen above) overlooks
the city. Built between 1077 and the 17th century by the ruling archbishops, it
served as a fortress against foreign invaders and rebellious natives.
Mirabellgarten (the garden where the von Trapp kids danced and sang) is located
in the Neustadt - as is Mozart's house and St. Sebastian church - on the east
bank Mirabellgarten is a great place to people watch and relax. Its extravagant
rose beds, labyrinths of clipped shrubs and 15 grotesque marble likenesses of
Wolf Dietrich's court jesters (the dwarf garden) shouldn't be missed either.
Everywhere you walk, there is a picturesque house or street tucked away.
Although I lived there for so long, I still don't think I know every street and
alleyway.
The Salzkammergut region (pictured left) offers just as many sights to see. The surrounding mountains and valleys offer plenty opportunities for the adventurous - white water rafting, paragliding, skiing, kayaking. The adventures are countless. The numerous salt mines are a definite must - even in winter - and tons of fun. I have been to the one in Hallstadt (the picture on the left was taken in the cable car going up to the salt mine) and near Berchtesgarden (close to the Königssee). The "tourist traps" of Wolfgangsee, Bad Ischl and Mondsee are also quite breathtaking.
My tips:
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For lodging - I recommend you stay at the Yoho (International Youth Hostel) - one of the Famous Five European Youth Hostels. My best friend Sophie worked here for years, and the bar and friendly help (mostly Australians) are known all over Europe by the backpackers. Call ahead. The party goes on until midnight (sometimes later if you ask nicely and the staff is in the mood to let loose). I learned how to d.j. here. "Don't like the music? Deal with it!"
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the Felsenkeller!!! Located tucked into the cliff behind the Festspielhalle - near St. Peter's graveyard. A musty, damp, wonderful pub. The walls are covered in moss and small silver Groeschen (the smallest Austrian coin - easily melted). My friends from Bowling Green State University enjoyed their evening here with us - didn't you, Dave? Too bad you can barely remember it... ;-)
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the Stiegl-Keller (Festungsgasse 20) has a great beer garden. It is on the way up to the Festung. The view is great. See the photo above.
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if you are looking for a beer hall, I half-heartedly recommend the Augustiner Bräustüble . I spent many happy evenings here, but it has gone too touristy (and clean) for my tastes. Still worth an evening though. Make sure you wait until the foam goes down and try to get the Wirt to top it off. Good luck!
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the Shamrock is a great Irish pub on the Rudolfskai (number 12 - along the river on the Altstadt side). Look for the English bookstore and you are real close.
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my friends thought I was crazy but I insisted on eating at Ribisl (south of Salzburg, tucked in a residential area near where I used to live) after eating there six years ago. The most wonderful Eispalatschicken (crepes with ice cream and Grand Marnier or chocolate sauce) you have ever eaten
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be sure to see a performance at the Salzburger Marionettentheater. Sophie and I were fascinated by the performance of the Magic Flute. I almost forgot they were puppets. Just beautiful..
(left to right): Sophie, Adam, me, Jürgen, and Holly in the Yoho bar - many a wild night is spent there.
Interested in living there for a year too? Check out the Bowling Green German department's home page.
© Jill R. Sommer, May 1998.